Some people think removing the thermostat from their car is a good idea. Many years ago, I've heard young guys say, "Your car doesn't need a thermostat. It'd run so much cooler without one. I run my car without a thermostat all the time". In fact, used car lots that were dishonest use to make it a standard practice to remove the thermostat out of every vehicle before putting it out on their lot for sale. The reason they did that was in case a vehicle had a weak head gasket, leaky radiator, leaky heater core, or old coolant hoses, the cooling system would never build up enough heat and pressure to make those problems noticeable.
You could get away with that back in the old days, about 30+ years ago, when vehicles had two core, three core, and four core radiators (cores are how many layers of cooling tubes a radiator has). But even then, removing the thermostat would cause an engine to not run at the proper operating temperature it was designed for, which compromised performance and fuel economy. It also didn't allow oil to warm up to normal operating viscosity, which shortened the life of the engine...But the engine did run cooler.
Now days it's a different ballgame. Most modern cars of today have only a one core radiator. Because of that, removing a thermostat would actually cause a car to overheat. In a car with a one core radiator, having no thermostat causes the coolant to flow through the radiator so quickly it doesn't have a chance to get cooled down, and hot coolant flows back into the engine, thereby causing the engine to eventually overheat. The two, three, and four core radiators in earlier model cars and trucks had enough capacity to where it took coolant longer to flow through them even without a thermostat.
Coincidentally, the trick practiced by dishonest used car lots of removing the thermostat out of every vehicle they sell no longer works.
Another trick dishonest used car lots use to pull years ago if they had a car with a leaky engine seal, or a car with bad engine rings, was changing the motor oil out to 40 or 50 weight oil, or dumping a bunch of STP in the crankcase...Anything to get it sold. Of course, that wouldn't work either in used cars built within the past 15 or 20 years. Oil passages in modern engines now days are smaller, thus it doesn't take long for oil that is too thick to destroy an engine.
Still another trick dishonest used car lots pulled years ago if they had a car with a slipping automatic transmission, was to put finely powdered sawdust in with the transmission fluid. That use to work long enough to get a car sold in transmissions like the typical Turbohydromatic 350 in GM cars of the 1960s and 1970s. However, that trick no longer works because of automatic transmissions now days being designed so precise and technically critical. And that trick would certainly not work in a CVT transmission with a metallic drive belt getting ready to go out.
I have a 23 f150 with a v6 I discovered after having it for just over a year now that the front grill has computer controlled louvers to control the amount of air being pulled in while driving the electric fans pull into the engine bay when the truck is driving or idling, It is to allow the engine to warm up/maintain the temperature in the engine compartment to assist other systems such as the battery monitoring system to regulate charge to the battery on cold days and to keep the transmission cooler,, (witch to me is weird because it has a external cooler and it has the traditional cooler/warmer in the bottom of the radiator.)and to save fuel..
Removing the thermostat would greatly impact the engine, on this truck as an example, for one it would never tell the computer it has warmed up to go into closed loop, it would be running in open loop witch riches the fuel to make the engine start easier.. and it would waste gas.. making the truck cause excessive exhaust gasses to enter the cats to be scrubbed or cleaned pre maturing their life expectancy considerably.. (truck has four cats) Third the transmission would delay shifting while under load,, some transmissions will not engage into overdrive,, unless it warms up past 120 degrees..
As for old tricks for hiding worn out engines,, just look at the brake petal.. if the rubber is worn off or half worn out that car was driven a lot and hard.. and last if all the fluids were just changed very recently.. walk away, that is a sign of problems.. like too long before oil changes.. water in oil.. oil consumption. coolant leaking into engine.. There is too much to list here..
CVT transmissions are a bomb waiting to go off but they can give a long life if you drive within reason and have it serviced like it is called for. There are some that gave gone 150k and never been opened.. some don't make it past 1k and they are destroyed.
But as most know buyer beware,, if it doesn't look feel or seems right walk away with your wallet in your FRONT pocket.
I have a 23 f150 with a v6 I discovered after having it for just over a year now that the front gri
I've heard the statement before, "Don't walk away from it...Run".
As for CVT transmissions, I've seen YouTube videos, including from Scotty Kilmer, that Toyota and Honda have improved their CVT transmissions over the years, though I still don't like CVT transmissions. As for Nissan CVT transmissions, those are made by Jatco, which are junk.
I got lucky when I purchased my 2006 Nissan Sentra. At the time I purchased the car, I was not yet aware of the existence of CVT transmissions. In the 2006 model year, CVT transmission was an available option in the Nissan Sentra. Some them had CVT transmissions, and some had conventional automatic transmissions. It was my good fortune that the 2006 Nissan Sentra I purchased has a conventional transmission, and not a CVT.
I've heard the statement before, "Don't *walk* away from it...*Run*". As for CVT transmissions, I
Doesn't matter if they made them better than garbage, it's still a time-bomb ready to blow to the point I would never buy a high mile car with a CVT and no warranty. A regular transmission can be repaired and fixed. A CVT has to be "replaced". ANd due to being overly complicated, means they are usually more expensive than the car is often worth.
And now with car companies trying to treat their cars like I-phones where parts have to be electronically "approved" or "unlocked" or "paired" it is getting rediculous.
What is even more ridiculous is the companies making "throwaway cars" try to pretend they "Care about the environment" and all that bullshit, yet keep making throwaway cars that are lucky to make it more than a few thousand miles beyond their warranties.
Doesn't matter if they made them better than garbage, it's still a time-bomb ready to blow to the po
I never did like CVT transmissions ever since I've heard of them. I never owned a car with a CVT, and don't intend to.
Toyota really messed up the 4runner for 2025 in my opinion. The 2024 models, which are 5th generation, are the last ones to have a V-6. All 2025, 6th generation, 4runners are equipped with a turbocharged inline 4 cylinder, and there is an optional hybrid. They are also equipped with an 8 speed automatic transmission. A manual transmission is available. Lots of people who are in the market for a new 4runner this year are snatching up the left over 2024s and avoiding the 2025s like the plague. I saw a report that stated, out of the 2025 4runners Toyota had tested, some developed transmission failure within 1,000 miles...That would almost get you from Orlando to Little Rock one way. I have a feeling that Scotty Kilmer will be putting out a YouTube video on those before the end of 2025.
I never did like CVT transmissions ever since I've heard of them. I never owned a car with a CVT, an
They certainly are. On the flipside, unless you are wealthy, a new car will get you bogged down in debt.
Things I make it an effort to do before buying a used car:
Do research on the best and worst cars, what issues certain models have and what production years had those issues. Examples being: Toyota Tundra pickup with the V-8. The starter is inside the motor. To replace the starter, you have to remove the intake manifold. However, that wouldn't be a deal killer for me, given how reliable Tundras are. 1990s and early 2000s Ford full size pickup. The 302 V-8 (coyote engine) is a good reliable engine. The 351 three valve V-8 is junk. Automatic transmissions in the midsized Ford Explorer are so bad those SUVs are nicknamed the "Ford Exploder". Kia Souls are known to burn oil at 17,000 miles. Dodge trucks built in 2013 and earlier are good trucks. In 2014, Fiat bought Dodge, and quality has gone down ever since. Some Volkswagen models have a plastic intake manifold. Ford Ranger pickups built in the 1990s have a great reputation. I have a 1996 I paid $1,700 for, and it has given good service. Nissan Exterra has lots of issues. The water pump is also located inside the engine driven by the timing chain. When the water pump goes out, it fills the crankcase with coolant and destroys the engine. 1990s Ford Crown Victoria is a very reliable car. And they are easier to work on.
Take notice of how many of certain makes and models you still see on the road.
Check for oil or automatic transmission fluid in the radiator. Oil indicates a blown head gasket or a cracked engine. Transmission fluid indicates the fluid cooler inside the radiator is leaking, and coolant is likely to be in the transmission. If it's bad enough, you can remove the radiator cap if it's not too hot and seal the opening with the palm of your hand with the engine running, and if you feel pulsating pressure against your hand, the head gasket is blown or the engine is cracked.
Remove the oil filler cap and seal the opening with the palm of your hand with the engine idling. If you feel slight pressure gradually build up against the palm of your hand, there is too much blow by for the PCV system to keep up with.
When you test drive a car for sale, take it out on an interstate highway if you can. Some problems with a car that don't show up at 45 mph will show up at 60 and 70 mph. A bent wheel rim is one such problem.
Check for seal and gasket leaks. Bad radiator hoses are not a deal killer. Those can be easily replaced.
If only some body parts have been repainted, it's likely the car had been in a wreck.
Check the milage on the odometer.
Check for unusual or odd wear on the tires.
If the brake rotors are visible, check for grooving or ripples.
Check for heavy soot in the tail pipe. That means the car is running too rich, which will eventually clog the catalytic converter...if it isn't clogged already.
If a car doesn't run right, and the seller tells you it only needs a tune up, ask yourself the question why didn't the seller get it tuned up. Chances are the problem is more serious than needing a tune up and the seller is lying.
It's better to buy a used car from a private owner than at a used car lot. Used car dealers overprice their cars, and they know how to "doll up" a car to mask problems that are wrong with it.
Definitely do not buy a decommissioned rental car. Many people who rent cars abuse the Hell out of them because it's not their car.
And don't fall for that line, "My cousin has the title. I'll have him bring it over this evening"... No title, no deal. Another red flag is, "This is my brother's car, and he granted me power of attorney". And I always compare the vin number on the title with the vin number on the dash of the car. I also compare the name on the title with the seller's name on his, or her, ID. I also check for joint owner names on the title.
They certainly are. On the flipside, unless you are wealthy, a new car will get you bogged down in
Yeah, but I know what you mean. Plenty of 90s Toyota's still going strong here, the Japanese make amazing stuff. The invested in new technology decades before that and despite it costing, they now profit from well build work horses.
Their Hilux from the 90s is a cultural icon. Thinking of pickup trucks, ever ridden in the back of one? A rural rite of passage!
Yikes... long! Yeah, but I know what you mean. Plenty of 90s Toyota's still going strong here, the
I was surprised to find out, that even back in the 1950s there were certain cars with issues.
In 1954, Ford discontinued their flathead V-8 and replaced it with the Y-block V-8 making it the first Ford V-8 to have overhead valves. Many Fords were equipped with the Y-block V-8, including Thunderbird, going back to first generation two seaters, and Fairlane which included the Skyliner convertible. Ford Motor Company was very proud and optimistic of the "all new innovative" Y-block V-8 when they introduced it in 1954. And it was a very powerful engine. However, the Y-block was plagued with lots of issues, including exhaust manifold scaling that eventually restricted or clogged exhaust manifolds causing overheating. And cylinder heads would crack. When it needed a tune up, service mechanics found the distributor to be seized to the block, preventing them from rotating the distributor to set the timing until they could somehow bust it loose.
Ford discontinued the Y-block V-8 in 1964...for many good reasons. 😝
I was surprised to find out, that even back in the 1950s there were certain cars with issues. In 1
Those stupid reliable 4.6l Ford engines are strangely good... And I mean rivaling similar engines from the likes of late 90s to early 2000s Toyotas.
A Crown Vic or Mercury Grand Marquis or 4.6 Mustang or F-150 are stupidly-reliable. Their biggest issue was the first runs with a plastic manifold coolant crossover that was prone to cracking.... But other than that as long as you stayed on basic maintenance it's not unusual to see them with over 350,000miles before needing any overhaul-level work with some going 500,000miles. And the 4R70W and 75 transmissions are bulletproof.
Same thing with the older LT Chevy V8 350s from the 1990s, not a shit-ton of power in most applications but dead-nuts-reliable.
Same thing with the chevy 3800V6, even the Supercharged one managed to be a 250,000mile+ engine.
Those stupid reliable 4.6l Ford engines are strangely good... And I mean rivaling similar engines fr
One time I had a V-8 motor from a 1978 Pontiac. I actually set it on the ground chained to a couple of fence posts, then ran wires and two starter cables from a battery to the ignition, starter and alternator and with a ground wire. Then I rigged a lawnmower gas tank gravity fed to the carburetor. I left the torque converter attached to the crankshaft to serve as a flywheel. After I done all that, I actually started the motor and ran it while it sat on the ground. Though I didn't run it for more than a minute at a time being I didn't have a cooling system set up for it.
Very true. One time I had a V-8 motor from a 1978 Pontiac. I actually set it on the ground chaine
ohhh no. thats not good at all ,my grand pa was a mussle car wizzard and he told me never to do that but if i wanted to run it cooler to drill a very small hole in the left side of the thermostatit'll lower the temp but keep the good pressure and better for other things in the car..
ohhh no. thats not good at all ,my grand pa was a mussle car wizzard and he told me never to do that
Usually called "weep holes" and great for cars with sealed coolant systems that are known to have air-pocket issues like 4.6 Crown vics and panther platform cars to the point Ford eventually built them into the thermostat design because they were aware of the air issue.
Usually called "weep holes" and great for cars with sealed coolant systems that are known to have ai
I had a few cars with no thermostat. Removing the thermostat was common in hot climates like South Florida. It allegedly allowed the engine to run cooler, but of course, it caused other problems. Even worse idea with modern cars, because everything is controlled by computers and sensors and you can screw up lots of things.
I had a few cars with no thermostat. Removing the thermostat was common in hot climates like South F
