Welcome to Inkbunny...
Allowed ratings
To view member-only content, create an account. ( Hide )
Creating a Figure - Day 1 (Read description)
« older newer »
bbmbbf
bbmbbf's Gallery (2270)

Creating a Figure - Day 2 (Read description)

Creating a Figure - Day 3 (Read description)

Medium (920px wide max)
Wide - use max window width - scroll to see page ⇅
Fit all of image in window
set default image size: small | medium | wide
Download (new tab)
page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
by bbmbbf
Creating a Figure - Day 1 (Read description)
Creating a Figure - Day 3 (Read description)
+2

I decided to start printing these two parts first, the lower body and the head. after setting up the print i leave it over night, taking 13 hours to finish.

you see those vertical columns? those are the support structures i metioned in the first post. the slicing software creates these so that the printer can deal with Overhangs and Shallow Angles. Support helps the printer print these details, but after printing, these peices are useless and must be removed. this is a pain in the ass sometimes! some, especialy pieces on internal areas such as an open mouth, are incredibly difficult to remove. you have to be a surgeon and cut them out of the inside of the model.

when slicing the model, you dont want to create too much support material for three reasons. one, it wastes filament. two, the less material you have to remove, the easier your life will be when removing it. and three, support material can leave a rough surface on your print where it touches the model. these rough spots ruin paintjobs.

when we split the model, it helps us keep the amount of support material under our control, allowing us to position the parts in such a way that the ammount of support needed is minimized. it also allows us to control where the support attaches to the model. for instance, you dont want support material sticking to the face of the character, because the face has many small details that would be ruined by the rough surface support material leaves behind. this is especialy bad because the face is the first thing everyone looks at. this is why the head is facing up, so that the support will be created on the back of the head, where there's not much detail.

so far, if you dont count the time spent modeling, we have:
-6 hours preparing the model for printing.
-13 hours of printing just two of the parts.

Keywords
male 1,187,547, wolf 192,373, 3d 22,342, model 3,267, figure 2,231, sculpture 1,046, tutorial 617, printing 33, 3dprinting 32
Details
Type: Picture/Pinup
Published: 7 years, 11 months ago
Rating: General

MD5 Hash for Page 1... Show Find Identical Posts [?]
Stats
947 views
20 favorites
12 comments

BBCode Tags Show [?]
 
sonictopfan
7 years, 11 months ago
I need to get me one of these <3
Fursat
7 years, 11 months ago
Good god, i dont wanna know how many post work have todo here. What you use aktually? ABS or PLA?
bbmbbf
7 years, 11 months ago
ABS ^^
Fursat
7 years, 11 months ago
is there a reason for that? as far i know you can print PLA way smoother than ABS. Or is the Postwork with ABS easier?
bbmbbf
7 years, 11 months ago
Actually I heard that ABS is better regarding quality of the prints (tho it have some toxis fumes, heh.. but I my printer is not where I work)
Fursat
7 years, 11 months ago
ohh ya its a huuuuuuge discussion about that, one do say this and another this... for example all experts i know swear up and down on material4print-filament but i have lot troubles with it... well learn by testing and doing
ae6b9
7 years, 11 months ago
PLA prints out way easier and is much more forgivable than ABS. To get high quality ABS prints you really need to have a heated bed and heated enclosure. All PLA really needs is some part cooling fans on the print head, though those do help too. It depends on the filament, but PLA is generally stronger than ABS, where as ABS is much more thermally resistant (running a PLA print under hot water or leaving it in a hot car is enough to start melting it). You can also sand ABS or vapor smooth it with acetone, neither of which works well on PLA.
MiniFeru
7 years, 11 months ago
see this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BePRUTsZh_w
maybe you can do the same for the support structures
bbmbbf
7 years, 11 months ago
Thanks for the advice ^^ tho that require a dual struder printer.. and actually one that prints on PLA..  mine prints on ABS but not PLA also single struder.. (but it compensate with easy calibration, high res printing)
fyari
7 years, 11 months ago
what printer do you have? :O
bbmbbf
7 years, 11 months ago
zortrax m200
Shnurui
7 years, 11 months ago
open mouths could always be hinged, hung to avoid the need for risers, it does ad another line to the finished product though.
New Comment:
Move reply box to top
Log in or create an account to comment.