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rainChu's Gallery (11)

I seem to have acquired a 3D printer...

Game Announce & Character Designs

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by rainChu
Rosechu sculpt
Last in pool
I've printed out this lil guy from Hamtaro. It's Dexter, if you're familiar with the characters. I may be opening up commissions for figurines soon, I'd love to model, print, paint, and ship fursona figs :P

hamster 1,358, sculpture 561, hamtaro 183, figurine 158, ham-ham 26
Type: Photography - Fursuit/Sculpture/Jewelry/etc
Published: 10 months, 2 weeks ago
Rating: General

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10 months, 2 weeks ago
Nice!! :D I love Hamtaro!
10 months, 2 weeks ago
Always great to meet a fellow fan!
10 months, 2 weeks ago
thats cute
10 months, 2 weeks ago
10 months, 2 weeks ago
Ahhh Dexter, how cute! :D I love it!
10 months, 2 weeks ago
Thanks! I'm glad you like!
10 months, 2 weeks ago
Wow! I see you are doing 3D prints. Nice.

I wonder if your prices will be more competitive than that of Art To Part or even Shapeways. Shapeways are now doing parts from $4.49 per in³. That is not too bad. I would like to get a few made by them, but they will not do anything sexually explicit. Not even as far as doing a nude model I would think. Well not one playfully exposing one self, or playing with oneself. But I am willing to bet you possibly will, even if even if your prices are a little bit higher than Shapeways.

I also just got a new airbrush and compressor I have yet to learn how to use. Would be nice to try my hand on a few prints after I get the hang of using it on something else first.

I know you are still working this one out, but I do wonder what your price on prints will be, and what you are willing to print.

I did ask one other who was doing such, but he would not print any personally made models a client may have already made. He would only print out models that was asked of him to sculpt with his own 3D programs and skills for a client. And would not do nude models either.

I mostly would want to have some unpainted prints made of a sculpt I may make with my own set of programs. ZBrush is one I got that is reel good for such things. Knowing what format to save the model to would be some important info as well. Oh' and max print size.

Even if the print can't bee all to big, a large model can still be created from a set of smaller printed pieces. A 3D printed anthro puzzle would be fun. ^.^
10 months, 2 weeks ago
I can never outprice shapeways, because shapeways has a whole line of nearly fully automated printers. I won't charge by cubic inch, but rather I'll price it by model, based on the difficulty of the make. I only wish to print my own models. For enough money I may be motivated, though... it requires a lot of manual labor as well.

I'll do anything legal, except for real/usable weapons or religious symbols (figurines with weapons or religious symbols are ok.) I would much prefer to do modeling and charge for that, as well. It's just not in the cards to use my own 3D printer as a printing service, as the upkeep of it requires a lot more than plastic. Without a line of printers all going at once, It takes about 4-8 hours to print out someone else's model on settings worthy of a figurine, and that's not worth it to me without a pretty penny. I don't think you'd want to pay $30 plus shipping for a 2"-3" model, which is what I'd want to be compensated for monitoring my printer for that duration, ready to restart the whole job if it fails. Then cleaning it up by hand and sanding it.

In addition, the model has to be made with printing in mind. The printer doesn't just spit out anything you give it, it has to be modeled with overhangs, material strength, and size in mind. I'm not willing to accept any old model you give me because it takes a lot of waste material to print figures not meant to be printed (Yure, for instance, required about 45 minutes of cleanup labor with a craft knife and some sand paper... I really wanted that pose, even knowing it was not the best choice.)
10 months, 2 weeks ago
It is understandable that you could not compete with Shapeways in price. As I had a look around, hardly anyone will print anything at their price at the the quality they offer.

Humm... It's too bad. That's about what the other had told me. He only wanted to print what he was asked to design. The chance to make more that way he felt was part of his reason as well.

As for all that extra cost, I am use to working with plastic models myself. I could do most of the finishing cleanup work of both breaking the model out of it's supports, and using my Dremel to smooth it out as I would like it.

Lets say I was to do most of the work on both sculpting the model, and finishing the final print, and what I would have you do is just print it? How about $18 for a near 3" tall figure printed in the raw and shipped that way, detail and time to print pending?  Oh' the near $18 not including shipping costs. ^.^

The only reason I'd be interested in having you print and at the much higher cost than Shapeways offers is due to the concept of the sculpt. Otherwise Shapeways does seem to have the best offer I have found on most any other site. $18 to you for just a raw print, vs a near $5 for a hi res finish by them? I'd be willing to pay the extra to get what I want, if I can get it.

I could also always just outright ask them if they are willing to do anything sexually explicit. I didn't find anything on their site stating that they wouldn't. There is the chance they might, it really depend on what it is I suppose.

I'd been thinking of getting my own 3D printer of late anyway. I saw a good one for around $500. It save me a lot in cost just to have my own at this rate it would seem. And I'd more likely be able to finally get the prints I'd want to have made, without asking around.

Thank you for letting me know the price you'd be looking for. At least now I know. Getting my own printer seems to be the best option at this point. Unless Shapeways is willing to make what I want, but I doubt it.
10 months, 2 weeks ago
I highly recommend the printer I got. It is the cheapest I saw that actually has good reviews. It is the Monoprice Select Mini. It's about $250 from Amazon, and isn't locked in to silly proprietary cartridge format. It also accepts standard g-code, so you can use whatever slicer program you like best. I've had no issues with it and I really am glad I picked this one. The one thing you might not like about it is the 4" build plate. It can built 4"×4"×4" theoretical max. For my figurines, this doesn't really matter. It's very accurate for the price, with a resolution of 100 microns. If it's any indication of how accurate this printer is, I was able to download and print a print-in-place fidget spinner, with the spinning axles built into the print, and yes, it spins!
10 months, 1 week ago
Wow, I did not see this reply till just now. OK, so now I know what you have and that it can print with 0.1mm resolution. That info helps, like a lot! ^.^ I was somehow under the impression that it might not be able to print at anything smaller than 0.4 or 0.3 resolution.

I also see it has a larger then you said printable area.  It is of 4.7" than just 4". That meas I could model something at 4.5" and it should work just fine.

The build plate size is of no prob to me. If I so wished to make something bigger, I just make it in pieces and either snap or glue them together. I could make a full three foot tall model with such a thing if I wished. But man, there would be a lot of pieces to such a big model. 0.o And I think I would make all the pieces snap together via the print shapes. ^.^

I like the printer and the price for it is vary good, but for the money, I'd think I would get the Maker Ultimate 3D Printer at just under $700, if one was counting their pennies. ^.^

It has a print build size of 7.9" x 7.9" x 6.9" and a print resolution of 0.02mm. That resolution is vary important! O.O Also that it prints at a rate of 150 mm/sec vs yours at 55 mm/sec, that being about three times as fast, makes it all worth the $700 price indeed.

I feel I am sold on the Maker Ultimate 3D. Now to only save up the cash for it... 0.o
10 months, 1 week ago
You seem to misunderstand how 3D printers work. The Maker Ultimate is not three times as fast, and more accurate- it is either three times as fast -or- more accurate. If you want an accurate printer, you need to use a small extruder nozzle, very slow speeds and low temperature, and swapping extruders them can be dangerous on some models (You have to bring the extruder up to temperature, 200C/400F) and twist it off at that heat. They screw it in while hot at the factory, because the metal expands when hot and contracts when cool. If they screwed it in cool, the threads wouldn't be tight enough when hot and it might wobble. You'll not want to do it often. If you want a printer with a large print area, you would want to use a large nozzle so you can get the print done. You never, ever want to leave your printer unattended, because they are an industrial workshop machine that can actually catch fire in the worst cases. Printing something with 0.02mm layer height (this is not accuracy, there's a lot that goes into what actually makes a print smooth) at 7" square would likely take you well over 24 hours. I would not advise sleeping or leaving the house/workshop. It's a very small and unlikely chance, but Murphy's law and all that.

Keep in mind they will advertise its max speed, when extruding with high temp and large nozzle, and conversely, also advertise the lowest layer height they can get away with. It really does not mean you can combine those two numbers. Look at customer reviews more than anything else. They'll say a lot more.

While it is a much better model than the Select Mini all around, with all around better specs and probably better build quality, please don't get your hopes up for a machine that can do such fast resolution with such fast speed.

As for my printer's print area, no, it is 4". You might be looking at the physical size of the build plate. The actual build size of a printer is always smaller than the build plate size. The build plate size is actually completely irrelevant, but manufacturers like to advertise it, because it gives people who don't know what to look for in a printer the impression it can print larger things than it really can. On the details, it actually says 100mm... the upper limit is really more like 110mm, but I'd feel more comfortable capping it at 100-105mm to make it easier to separate.

And I just want to reiterate that phrase "industrial workshop machine." Breaking your printer and rebuilding it is part of the fun. Just be prepared for that. You mentioned owning a Dremel so I'm pretty sure you'll love one :P
10 months, 1 week ago
This is all indeed good info and good to know. I was thinking as much that there was a good chance that the described speed difference was of a print made by both at the same print resolution, same nozzle, and of the same model. I forgot to mention that, but you cleared up any assumption I may have had anyway. ^.^

Also good to know of the danger in attempting to change the nozzle for different print resolutions. 400F that is hot! O.O But I have handled pressed and welded steal hot enough to melt skin on contact, so, I think I am good so long as I don't touch it directly.

I will also remember that your build size is 4" and not 4.7" Not that I couldn't have made a quick fix if I did set the scale to be 4.5", but now I will not have to.

Seems if I do go for a long build at the highest res, I will have to do it over the weakened when I do have more time at home. Yes, Murphy's law and all that, can't forget.

I don't see myself getting it any time soon though. So, I am far more likely to still have you or another make prints for me when you can until then. ^.^

And Yes, I do like to dabble in fixing things, thought I have yet had to fix my Dremal. It does not get used all that often. My corded pen attachment even less.
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