so, I finally got some spare time to myself, and I finally got my printer running again (I hope). As it stands, I am running a test-print to see how the mod works out. If things go swimmingly, I will be able to go forth and resume my 3D printing services.
Here's all that has occurred to repair this printer (which I have had for about 4-8 months, I think):
Acryllic case replaced - $27.95
Printer Peek Insulator needed drilled out.
New Hot End (bad thermometer on old one) $72.00
Removed old hot end core from old setup, added to new one to heat exposed brass piping
Adjusted Z-Axis endstop to lower the maximum bed position by 5.9mm
Used an omnidirectional level to ensure printer, print bed, print head, and guide rods are flat and level.
So here is where I stand for trying to pinpoint the cause of this shit. The brass pipe is too long for the printer, so it cannot remain as hot as it needs, and the plastic inside it cools enough to grab hold and jam up the nozzle. To fix that, I moved the heat core down to just above the nozzle, and added the old heat core from my bad hot-end to just below the insulator. The nozzle is in direct contact with the main core, and the secondary core is wired in parallel with the main's power in order to allow it to heat up.
As of now, I can print at any speed (10mm/min to 600mm/min) at a thickness of .3mm, and it is working well. All layers are flat, glossy, and well-bonded, and the accuracy is much better than it used to be, having no oozing or globbing whatsoever.
In closing, anyone who has a Solidoodle printer can make things easier by ordering a spare heat core and adding it to the existing hot end. For those considering purchasing one of these machines, get a spare heat core in addition to your order. It will save you a LOT of trouble and money later on, and it will make your prints look positively beautiful.
That's it for me tonight, guys. Ima crash and let this run its test overnight.
5 years ago
28 Jul 2013 17:05 CEST