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KinkyRomance

Need hints from artists

I feel like coloring some of Mike Sherman's art, especially The Lion King art of his. However, there're tons of pictures to color and the starting quality varies from relatively clean scanned pencil sketches to images colored by aliased zero-tolerance color fills and murdered by low quality JPEG compression. Starting with the first kind, for obvious reasons.

What is the modern way of coloring fast and easily? The goal is soft cell shading using mouse and keyboard. Well, unless there's an easy way of getting softer shading. The softness is actually what I struggle with the most.
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TL;DR: Scroll to the bottom where Problem #5 is described. Everything else somewhat works (though suggestions in other areas are welcome too).
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So, my pencil sketch clean up is currently this:

Cleanup Script 1: Levels
* Levels Adjustment layer Range=253–255
* Smart Blur Radius=10 Threshold=25 Quality=Low
* Levels 0–~230 (remove blur and light noise)
* Disable Level Adjustment layer
* Levels ~80-255 (make lines black)

This is scripted with PhotoShop macros with two Levels dialogs enabled. Mostly works, but values for Adjustment layer are sometimes not set (bug?). I also leave Adjustment layer to make later cleanup easier.

Cleanup Script 2: Denoise
* Duplicate Layer
* Median Radius=1
* Set Selection to inverted background gray
* Median Radius=1 on original layer
* Delete median layer

This cleans up the random pixel kind of noise while not allowing Median filter to murder line corners. Works only on medium quality scans.

At this point automation stops and I clean up stray lines pixels manually with brush. Then I open the file in BenVista PhotoZoom and scale 200–300% with Method=S-Spline Sharpness=75–85% Everything else=0. (Scaling is required because Sherman's scans have relatively low resolution.)

After I open the scaled image in PhotoShop, I apply Levels Range=20–200 to make lines more solid (doing stronger Levels before upscaling may remove too much smoothness). Also, if lines are too noisy and uneven, I do this manually:

Cleanup Manual 2: Smooth Lines
* Duplicate Layer
* Median Radius=2
* Erase areas where lines connect which Median filter makes too dark

The last operation requires manual work, which is unfortunate as I feel it can be automated. However, I can't find a way to mask away corners and line connections from stronger Median filter (Problem #1). I may also clean up lines a bit more if required, as they are final.

At this point I have clean black lines on white background. I convert them to transparent layer.

Cleanup Script 3: Transparent Lines
* Set Selection to inverted background gray
* Create layer filled with black
* Delete selected area

There's also a mask thing, but I feel like it's unnecessary here. Are there any benefots of using masks? (Problem #3)

Then the coloring starts. Mostly it's this:

Coloring Manual 1: Fill
* Create Color layer
* Cap line holes with color splotches on the Color layer
* Magic Wand select
* Expand Selection Radius=1
* Fill with current color
* Go to step 2

Now, the hard part starts. I want some cell shading, preferably smooth.

Coloring Manual 2: Shadows
* Create Brightness/Contrast Adjustemnt Layer attached to Color layer Mode=legacy Brightness=–20
* Clear adjustment layer's mask to black
* Paint shadows on the mask with white

Not sure what adjustment to use. Are there better alternatives to using negative brightness for shadows? (Problem #4)

And finally, the most confusing part. I want shadows to be smooth. If I just apply Gaussian Blur Radius=20, then not only edges which need to be smoothed are smoothed, but also those which should not. Masking fails as mask edges become visible. Is there any way to apply strong blur only to required areas of shadow? (Problem #5)
Viewed: 37 times
Added: 6 years, 2 months ago
 
Meowz
6 years, 2 months ago
For highlights and shadows, I typically use a new layer in multiple burn mode. Alternatively two layers, one for highlights (Lighten only mode) and one for shadows (Darken only mode), or one for both. I use a brush that's reasonably big, sometimes 50 pixels wide, depending on what I shade.

I make sure that the shading only affects the colors and never the outline, which remains unchangable above all colourisation layers.

I use a simple soft ink/spraycan/paintbrush tool to create a soft gradient type of shadow. Using as few strokes as possible, following the shape I want to share. Often I make selections or inverted selections to shade.
KinkyRomance
6 years, 2 months ago
" new layer in multiple burn mode

Um, how is blending mode named in PhotoShop exactly? Also what are neutral and shadow colors in that mode? Or do you use different shadow colors?
Meowz
6 years, 2 months ago
Wish I knew what it's called there, sorry. I .... kinda use Gimp, and so the terminology from there is the only that I know.

With lighten only, and darken only, it doesn't matter what color you pick. The brush simply creates smoth transitions into darker versions of the colors used in the picture. It really just darkens or lightens them up.

In multiply burn, the colors matter, and I would typically use the color picker, select the color I want to shade or lighten, and use the RGB selector to pick a darker variant, or simply just black or white, set the brush to a very very low opacity (like, 4% or so) and repeat the strokes until I think it looks about right. The end result typically looks a lot like it's from Simbas Pride.

KinkyRomance
6 years, 2 months ago
Blending mode is a function which specifies how layers are combined when stacked on top of each other. You choose that from a dropdown above the layer list. Usually it's "normal", so just plain alpha blending.

Um, as far as I know, lighten and darken blending modes don't actually do anything useful, they're simple max and min functions which choose lightest or darkest colors from the base and the blended layers (well, lightest or darkest color component values, to be precise, so R, G and B separately). To apply highlights and shadows with them, you need to precisely choose highlight and shadow colors. If you didn't mess up while drawing highlights and shadows, you can actually switch blending modes of both layers to normal and the result will remain the same.

Well, if you use the same color to draw shadows in the whole picture, the result will change, but then lighten and draken modes would change hue and won't lighten/darken different colors by similar offsets, so the result would be a mess in the first place.

Could you send a sample file? Exported to PSD preferably.
Meowz
6 years, 2 months ago
The thing is, I did this a long time ago. 20 years ago. And I haven't done that a lot since then. Yes, the "blending mode" is probably the same thing as Gimp's "layer mode" then, because you select it for each layer individually, and the order in which they are stacked makes all the difference as to what the end result then looks like.

Though brighten and darken only did work very smoothly as I recall. They were very limited in functionality, as if made for this very purpose.

I would have to re-learn all of this again, something that I probably can't do over night. I'll take a look at this again soon, see if I can remember and retrace my steps.

PS: Love that new Avatar icon!
KinkyRomance
6 years, 2 months ago
I haven't been coloring for ages myself, though my break was way shorter than 20 years. 😜 Turns out these new fancy "smart objects" with "smart filters" are an awesome thing, also I finally forced myself to learn layer masks, quick masks and adjustment layers (everything except smart objects was available for quite a long time I believe), so I'm doing lots of operations in non-destrucive way. I like it. Though if you stick to Gimp, smart objects and even adjustment layers aren't available to you, I think.

And yeah, I can't stop looking at my avatar every time I open a page. 😁 I can't believe I somehow missed this picture of Kalida (a.k.a. NowAndLater) when converting my commissions to avatars. While I've commissioned several pictures from her, I believe we were pain in the ass for each other, but she has drawn very pretty pictures nontheless.
Malroth
6 years, 2 months ago
On destroyed pencil sketch ones, I would consider printing them out and light table pencil tracing of the lines to restore the original pencil sketch look. Then all it would take is to scan it back in to the computer.
KinkyRomance
6 years, 2 months ago
This approach requires hardware I don't have. 😆
Malroth
6 years, 2 months ago
I may give it a try some time. I have all but the scanner and the sketches that need restored.
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